EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Something to tickle your fancy.

Moderators: BeligerAnt, petec, administrator

razerdave
Posts: 1545
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:40 pm
Location: Carterton, Oxfordshire
Contact:

Re: EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Post by razerdave »

I forgot to add the regulator to the list, because mine has been attached to my bottle since I got it :P

User avatar
Jonny
Posts: 532
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 8:18 pm
Location: Reigate
Contact:

Re: EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Post by Jonny »

Duff wrote: And don't forget you'll also need a CO2 regulator, which will cost a small fortune!
trevors regs (lightest option, used by most lp featherweights) is only £40 :D
Image

kickboxer
Posts: 263
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 10:49 am
Location: wakefield

Re: EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Post by kickboxer »

found this intresting bore ram on the FRA forum

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/16mm-Bore-75mm-St ... 0133962792

the valve you suggested

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mini-Lever-Ball-V ... 7090267712

CO2 canister.also on the FRA forum

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20oz-BRAND-NEW-Co ... 2013453035

User avatar
Jonny
Posts: 532
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 8:18 pm
Location: Reigate
Contact:

Re: EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Post by Jonny »

for the ram i'd suggest you aim for a much higher bore! more bore=more power

that co2 cannister has a pin valve. basically that means that co2 comes out as soon as it's attached to the robot, this type of valve does not conform to the fra rules:

[quote]9.6 Remote Isolation Valve Gas cylinders that do not incorporate a valve (for example: the gas is released as soon as the cylinder is screwed into it‟s mating pneumatic connection) such as found on disposable welding bottles and „fizzy drinks‟ machines must have an additional remote isolation valve accessible from outside of the robot./quote]

you can use that bottle but you'll need an adapter like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lot-2-x-CO2-Adapt ... 903wt_1080
Image

kickboxer
Posts: 263
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 10:49 am
Location: wakefield

Re: EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Post by kickboxer »

so basically i take off the pin valve and attach that one.

would you be able to suggest a bore ram :-?

Remote-Controlled Dave
Posts: 3716
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:30 pm
Location: Antrim, Northern Ireland
Contact:

Re: EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Post by Remote-Controlled Dave »

Seriously, don't do it. You put up one of these over-enthusiatic posts all the time. It's great that you're enthusiastic about building robots, but you really need to start at the bottom and work your way up. You're trying to walk before you can run and it will only result in a waste of time and money, if not serious injury. If you've never built a featherweight before, make a 2-wheeled rolling platform to teach yourself the methods. Pneumatics are complicated and dangerous and its clear you have no idea what you're on about with them. The way to learn here is NOT through trial and error, especially at your age and experience level.
Die Gracefully Robotics
Winner - AWS 39

kickboxer
Posts: 263
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 10:49 am
Location: wakefield

Re: EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Post by kickboxer »

im not over enthusiastic.
i just want to make a robot that is quite good.
not something rubbish.
plus i have loads of advice from you guys.

User avatar
Jonny
Posts: 532
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 8:18 pm
Location: Reigate
Contact:

Re: EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Post by Jonny »

no, the pin valve screws into that adapter. then when the wheel at the top is turned the pin valve opens and co2 comes out.
ram wise i'd suggest having a bore greater than 40mm for low pressure.

i'd suggest:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Festo-Air-Cylinde ... 197wt_1141

the volume of this ram is a quarter of a litre, for a buffer tank i'd recommend going for triple that.
Image

User avatar
Jonny
Posts: 532
Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 8:18 pm
Location: Reigate
Contact:

Re: EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Post by Jonny »

i kinda agree with dave, heres a suggestion:

build a basic featherweight rambot and learn how these larger weight classes work. if you still want to build a flipper you can use drive and batteries from your rambot in your flipper :) by the what budget are you working with? featherweights are alot more expensive than ants!
Image

Remote-Controlled Dave
Posts: 3716
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:30 pm
Location: Antrim, Northern Ireland
Contact:

Re: EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK

Post by Remote-Controlled Dave »

im not over enthusiastic.
i just want to make a robot that is quite good.
not something rubbish.
plus i have loads of advice from you guys.
You can build a perfectly good featherweight without resorting to doing something you know nothing about. Look at Tiny Toon. Basic, 2 wheel drive pusher and its won a ton of events, including, at one point, the title.
It's a classic mistake to overstretch yourself because you want to win, or have a competitive robot. It's also not the best attitude to have for a project, especially with the level of quality and experience of featherweights out there. It is incredibly hard to win a featherweight fight, because there are usually about 20 robots in the ring at once. And what makes a "good" robot is open to interpretation anyway. Personally I think having yet another pnuematic flipper would not be a "good" robot at all.
With your level of knowledge, you'll never build a pnuematic flipper thats going to compete against other feathers out there. You need to gain knowledge and experience before attempting something like that. But, by all means, if you want to ignore practically everyone's advice on here and do it anyway, go for it. We can only say we warned you.
Die Gracefully Robotics
Winner - AWS 39

Post Reply