3D printer supplies
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Re: 3D printer supplies
Just been having a read through this- I bought a Prusa i3 just before Christmas and decided to have it fitted with the heated bed right away. It was taking ages to heat the bed so I wrapped a piece of cardboard with kitchen foil and clipped it under the bed, I then place another peice of cardboard on top of the bed when heating it up- it can now get to 110 degrees within 10 minutes.
I have had a few issues with small prints lifting from the bed so I've just bought a couple of fixpads to hopefully help with this.
I have had a few issues with small prints lifting from the bed so I've just bought a couple of fixpads to hopefully help with this.
Re: 3D printer supplies
I you want to heat your bed quicker, I've seen pruse users use hot air guns pointed at the beds to get them warm quicker.
Re: 3D printer supplies
As Rory said once we put my heated bed on 15V I haven't had any issues with being slow or uneven. Don't even need anything over it to speed it up.
Nuts And Bots - For all your components and ready built antweights!
Alex Shakespeare - Team Shakey / Nuts And Bots / Team Nuts:
AWS 44, 45, 49, 51 & 55 Winner - Far too many robots!
Alex Shakespeare - Team Shakey / Nuts And Bots / Team Nuts:
AWS 44, 45, 49, 51 & 55 Winner - Far too many robots!
- peterwaller
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Re: 3D printer supplies
I just had a play with my new switch mode PSU and the adjuster can get it up to 15V.
So if I reconnect the original PSU back to power the printer I could use that for the heated bed.
One thing I have been having trouble with is parts have been coming out thicker than before causing all sorts of fit problems.
On checking one of the track drive wheels I found that the spokes which are drawn at 1 mm thick were coming out to 1.3 mm.
I have found that by reducing Filament flow % from 100% to 75% they come out just about spot on, the surfaces are much smoother and the parts 25% lighter.
So if I reconnect the original PSU back to power the printer I could use that for the heated bed.
One thing I have been having trouble with is parts have been coming out thicker than before causing all sorts of fit problems.
On checking one of the track drive wheels I found that the spokes which are drawn at 1 mm thick were coming out to 1.3 mm.
I have found that by reducing Filament flow % from 100% to 75% they come out just about spot on, the surfaces are much smoother and the parts 25% lighter.
Re: 3D printer supplies
Just a quickie; what layer thicknesses have people with Prusa i3's found give the best results?
Scott Fyfe-Jamieson, Captain of Epic Robotics. Champion of AWS38/41/42.
http://www.epicrobotics.co.uk
http://www.epicrobotics.co.uk
Re: 3D printer supplies
I use 0.152mm, the number seems odd but it's recommended to keep the layer height a multiple of the mm/step of the axis.
Nuts And Bots - For all your components and ready built antweights!
Alex Shakespeare - Team Shakey / Nuts And Bots / Team Nuts:
AWS 44, 45, 49, 51 & 55 Winner - Far too many robots!
Alex Shakespeare - Team Shakey / Nuts And Bots / Team Nuts:
AWS 44, 45, 49, 51 & 55 Winner - Far too many robots!
- peterwaller
- Posts: 3213
- Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2002 12:00 am
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Re: 3D printer supplies
I tend to find 0.2 mm is a good compromise of finish over speed.
I only use 0.1 mm for small precise parts like gearboxes.
I only use 0.1 mm for small precise parts like gearboxes.
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Re: 3D printer supplies
I've found 0.2mm to work better than 0.1mm and then set 0.3mm for the base layer. Seems to give rather good results now.
Re: 3D printer supplies
I just came across these:
http://www.fiberforce.it/special-filaments-2/
Some very interesting filaments here, the most interesting of which is nylon reinforced with carbon fibres. Has anyone got any experience with any filaments like these?
http://www.fiberforce.it/special-filaments-2/
Some very interesting filaments here, the most interesting of which is nylon reinforced with carbon fibres. Has anyone got any experience with any filaments like these?
Scott Fyfe-Jamieson, Captain of Epic Robotics. Champion of AWS38/41/42.
http://www.epicrobotics.co.uk
http://www.epicrobotics.co.uk
- peterwaller
- Posts: 3213
- Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Aylesbury Bucks
- Contact:
Re: 3D printer supplies
No I haven't tried any of those but as you say they do look interesting.
My 4 main robots all have Alloy 910 nylon armour and apart from one deepish gouge and a couple of scratches all resisted any real damage apart from the ABS legs on Mutant.
http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/alloy-910-175mm-1089-p.asp
I have a sample of 3DXTECH ION nylon which I am trying but a combination of it being an unsealed sample and the high humidity we have been experiencing means it has absorbed a lot of moisture and has not been printing properly.
I have just obtained a cheap oven from Ebay which is proving difficult to control but I have just got some dried out and it now seems to print well.
Its early days so far but it seems to have the strength and resiliance of the 910 but with slightly more stiffness for thin objects but needs 260c on 110c as opposed to 250c on 45c so not as easy to use.
http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/3dxtech-ion ... 7675-p.asp
My 4 main robots all have Alloy 910 nylon armour and apart from one deepish gouge and a couple of scratches all resisted any real damage apart from the ABS legs on Mutant.
http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/alloy-910-175mm-1089-p.asp
I have a sample of 3DXTECH ION nylon which I am trying but a combination of it being an unsealed sample and the high humidity we have been experiencing means it has absorbed a lot of moisture and has not been printing properly.
I have just obtained a cheap oven from Ebay which is proving difficult to control but I have just got some dried out and it now seems to print well.
Its early days so far but it seems to have the strength and resiliance of the 910 but with slightly more stiffness for thin objects but needs 260c on 110c as opposed to 250c on 45c so not as easy to use.
http://shop.3dfilaprint.com/3dxtech-ion ... 7675-p.asp