Hi there , Im new to this and have just finished my antweight design . I wanted to run the parts by users on the forum to make sure everything will work.
Parts :
NanoTwo ESC
Turnigy TGY-306g-HV - For the flipper
Turnigy nano-tech 180mah 2S 25~40C Lipo Pack
To charge the battery :
Turnigy 12v 2-3S Basic Balance Charger
The Transmitter :
Blade Heli Controller Spektrum MLP4DSM DSMX
Thats my parts list . The body of the bot will be 3.0mm laser cut plastic. Heres a preview of the design:
Last edited by oxhey on Sat Jan 23, 2016 8:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Everything on that list *should* work nicely, although you're going to need an external 12v power source or supply for the charger. 'm guessing you've done the design work already to make sure it'll fit in the weight limit with 3mm plastic (which plastic? bear in mind acrylic will shatter), it looks nice and compact but that is quite thick by antweight standards!
Joey McConnell-Farber - Team Picus Telerobotics - http://picus.org.uk/ - @joey_picus
"These dreams go on when I close my eyes...every second of the night, I live another life"
Acrylic is an *extremely* bad idea for the above reason (it shatters when hit) - you really need to be able to throw the robot at a wall and have it survive with minimal damage, given the power of spinners and pneumatic flippers these days!
The ideal material if you're using plastics would be something impact resistant like polycarbonate or polypropylene; at 3mm those materials would probably be pushing the weight limit a bit though...from what's on the RazorLab list, there's not actually a lot that's normally used, but plywood or MDF might work well if you're limited just to those. How the components are mounted makes a difference as well; if you're relying on the bodywork to hold the robot together, you're going to have a bad time, but if it's just armour you can take quite a bit more of a beating.
Personally I've used polycarbonate and polypropylene as chassis materials in the past at 1.5mm and 1mm thicknesses; these stood up fairly well although bending introduces weak points. My current robots use thick (5mm) Nylon 6 sides with aluminium/carbon fibre/titanium body panels bolted and tapped directly into them, with everything waterjet cut where possible; living next door to a waterjet company helps there though! (realistically any cutting method will work - you can cut thick polycarbonate with a Stanley knife and lots of patience, although the scars on my hands suggest maybe it's not the best idea...)
Joey McConnell-Farber - Team Picus Telerobotics - http://picus.org.uk/ - @joey_picus
"These dreams go on when I close my eyes...every second of the night, I live another life"
Welcome to the forum, your list was basically my last robot apart from the plastic so you seem to have spoken to someone who knows what you need do good luck
Team Badger
Has a 3d printer now yay
-£4.82+VAT (intact)
-cool modulated printed thingy
-not yet built nasty mean spinnt thingy
I'm gonna build something huge and stupid, try and stop me
Depending where you are you might be able to come up to the Ant Freeze in Nuneaton on the 23rd to have a look at everything and get ideas and tips from people? (You'd be made very welcome! )
Joey McConnell-Farber - Team Picus Telerobotics - http://picus.org.uk/ - @joey_picus
"These dreams go on when I close my eyes...every second of the night, I live another life"
You seem to know your CAD, as such I'd advise 3D printed ABS. it's a fairly popular way to create a pretty solid chassis. Alex offers a well priced printing service if you don't have access to your own printer: http://robotwars101.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2246
I suggest you look for A4 sheets of 1mm and 2mm polycarbonate on Ebay. You can cut the 1mm with a decent pair of scissors or tin snips. A junior hacksaw or tin snips are probably the best bet for 2mm. A sharp utility/craft knife would probably also work but would be quite a lot of effort.
You can also bend polycarbonate (hot or cold) to make the flipper out of a single piece.
If you just want to build something up to practice driving then cardboard or thin plywood would be perfect. It also gives you the chance to see how the flipper really works. In fact, with the addition of some gaffa tape cardboard of plywood would actually work fairly well