RobotWars101

Very cool.

Btw have you tried printing in Nylon? How would you say the PC compares? I might have to get some PC to play with...

Well I had a great time at Antfreeze 7, thanks all. I had 3 wins and 2 losses, and reached the final 16 before getting knocked out by CATanix (I think?). The first loss came from driving it into the pit unaided against Wedge Wedge Wedge, just stupidity and inexperience. The second loss was because C...

Oh wow, the FS-2a looks perfect, thanks. I've ordered a couple now.

Ah, that's a good idea. Note that the nuts alone were 3g before. I think replacing the nuts and bolts with nylon equivalents would save even more. I've also been pointed to this 1-gram receiver: https://www.banggood.com/2_4G-8CH-D8-Mini-FrSky-Compatibel-Receiver-With-PWM-PPM-SBUS-Output-p-1140478.ht...

Final update: I've spray painted a logo on to one side so that I can easily identify when it's upside down: https://img.jes.xxx/2531 And, it was weighing in at 151g. Maybe that's close enough to be arguable, but I'd rather be strictly under the limit, and I certainly don't want to be forced to start...

You can 3d print a mould and a hub and cast some 2-part silicone rubber onto the hub using the mould. That's how I made wheels, it's not that hard. Peterwaller's thread has some more detail on it as well. Although, given that you would have dozens of them to make, you might consider making a mould t...

JoeHLloyd wrote: ↑Wed Jan 22, 2020 7:21 pm Speaking of which would anyone read a build thread if I made one?

I certainly would! I'd recommend writing one. People read mine and gave very helpful advice, well worth doing IMO.

While I haven't scanned US eBay yet I'd start by looking on US eBay. Just type in search terms based around the product descriptions of the items you want from UK eBay. I'd be surprised if equivalent products didn't show up. Failing that, in principle I'd be happy to buy in the UK and ship to you i...

And update on the controller: I've fitted a DPDT switch and I can now just flick the switch when the robot is upside down, and then it drives the same as when it's the right way up. I decided to keep all of the existing controls and just stick it on the top surface of the controller. It's a bit of a...

I wasn't planning to put any acetate on the wedge, no.

It comes to a relatively sharp point already, will just have to see how it goes.

For reference, the layer lines in the print are 0.2mm.