Peter Wallers Robot Ramblings

[limpet]

That's impressive. I`m still using the perforated pcb board that was supplied with mine but not getting any problems with it yet.

[peterwaller]

I thought I had better do a test on a large flat area as that is what I had been having most trouble seperating from the raft so I chose the lid for anticyclone.
Where I had removed the honecomb chassis from the glass there was a pattern left in the glue so I decided to wash the glue off.
Having put it under the tap and rubbed it with my finger I found that the glue seemed still sticky so I made sure all the hard parts were disolved and spread the glue over the whole of the glass as evenly as possible.
With the glass laid on the printer table I set it to preheat and the glue set off again in about 5 mins going from white to almost clear.
I then printed the lid again without a raft and when it had cooled for a couple of minutes I was able to hook a fingernail under one corner and lift the hole lid off the table leaving a very smooth finish on the underside although for some reason there were a couple of imperfections in the top.
Below is a picture of the underside of the new lid plus the existing Anticyclone lid showing the damge done while seperating it from the raft.

[earthwormjim]

Hi Peter.My printer didn't come with a heated plate, but at first I just printed with pla, so didn't have that problem. Now I am using abs, and have been forced to find a solution. I have made a heat pad using a heat pad under a sheet of tempered glass, then use krylon tape over the top of the glass. The finish is very good, and after cooling down, the parts just pop off, well almost. The krylon tape is a gold colour and is easily bought on ebay.I use a small head gap, to give a solid first layer. This also gives an almost mirror smooth surface. I am away at the moment, but Will takes some photos of the setup when I get back.
Jim.

[earthwormjim]

I don't print with a raft but on large flat areas I make a helper disc, 12mm diameter 1.5mm tall and incorporate one at each corner of the print. Then cut them off once the print has been removed.

[peterwaller]

I really would recommend you try the glue stick on the glass it really is very consistant and no lifting at all.
I also found out why I was getting imperfections on the top the head was just a little too close it is much better now I have backed it off 0.2mm.
Another advantage I have found is that some time ago I bought some cheaper yellow ABS from ebay but because it had a slightly lower melting point it proved impossible to seperate from the raft.
I have just tried it out with the new method and it works fine so it could save quite a bit in the future.

[Shakey]

Some interesting tips, I'll have to make note

You have an Up! mini right? If so do you have much ability to control the hot end temperature?

[peterwaller]

No its an UP Plus and the only control of temperature is ABS or PLA setting
Along with the cheap yellow ABS I bought some cheap Black PLA but the head temperature seem to low in PLA mode and it had trouble feeding it through until it finally stopped feeding altogether.

[peterwaller]

Here is the new flea version of Flippant.


I had to go for the very light structure as the lifter servo is 19 gms.
Mind you for that you get 3.5 kgcms and 0.05 sec at 8.4v.
Here it is in action:
http://youtu.be/p4XYOG7QFh8
It came out at 68gms so I might be able to add a bit of armour to the front.

[Remote-Controlled Dave]

That's very impressive. Think I might have to try a combat worthy fleaweight for November.

[peterwaller]

Here it is finished with titanium armour on the front it come out at 75.2gms.