3D printer supplies

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peterwaller
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Re: 3D printer supplies

Post by peterwaller »

I was really impressed that it could cover the whole top without any support structure just a pity I couldn't get any parts inside.
I have just started the reprint so I will see how it goes.
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peterwaller
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Re: 3D printer supplies

Post by peterwaller »

Just looking at upgrading my Prusa i3 to heated bed
All was going well until I tried running the Adruino software with which I couldn't get the code to compile and eventually blew away the firmware in the printer without actually trying a down load.
Fortunately 10 mins in 3D printworld and they had not only got the printer working again but had downloaded the new firmware for the heated bed.
I still have to connect the new power supply but it is displaying both head and bed temperatures which is a good start.
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Re: 3D printer supplies

Post by peterwaller »

All working now here are a couple of shots showing the heated bed wire support and the new power supply.
Image

Image
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Re: 3D printer supplies

Post by peterwaller »

I have noticed that the Prusa I3 takes quite a time to heat up the hot bed to anything above 80 c.
One of the chaps from the shop had suggested a cork tile under the hot bed would improve things and I had noticed Alex laid his Lipo bag on top of the bed during the heating period.
So I did a test, with Cura set to 110 c, with just the heated bed, the bed with a cork tile below it supported by a piece of hardboard and the same but with another cork tile laid on top.
The hot bed alone got to its maximum of 95 C in 20 mins.
With the cork tile below it was slower to warm up to start with due to the higher thermal capacity but got to 95 c in 20 mins and peaked at 98 c after 30 mins.
The third set up heated up faster to 95 c in 12 mins, leveling off at the programmed 110 c after 20 mins.
Below is a graph.
Image
I have also been trying out the Capton with mixed results.
Some times if there is a large serface area it works OK bur other times I have had to use a glue stick as well but I have found the walls around 1mm thick which were often hollow on the up printer are much better filled on this one.
Here's and example of the new flippant chassis in a rather nice if understated fluorescent green ABS.
Image
I have also had a play with some of the Filaflex rubbery material.
So far I have only really managed too jam up the filament feed but apparently you need to turn off the filament withdraw function so I will need to try again.
My hope is that it might be useful as supplementary armor plus I am hoping to use it molded into my tracks to stop them being so stretchy.
A quick test with just a length of the filament looks promising and unlike with latex it doesn't ruin the curing process.
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Re: 3D printer supplies

Post by Rapidrory »

Alex had the same problem; I suggested he upped the voltage on the heated bed to 15v and his heats up very quickly now. Does mean you need a separate 15v power supply for the bed, but it's simple enough to wire in. I did the same on my Fabrikator and it makes such a difference.
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teamocean
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Re: 3D printer supplies

Post by teamocean »

Just been having a read through this- I bought a Prusa i3 just before Christmas and decided to have it fitted with the heated bed right away. It was taking ages to heat the bed so I wrapped a piece of cardboard with kitchen foil and clipped it under the bed, I then place another peice of cardboard on top of the bed when heating it up- it can now get to 110 degrees within 10 minutes.

I have had a few issues with small prints lifting from the bed so I've just bought a couple of fixpads to hopefully help with this.
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Re: 3D printer supplies

Post by Nixon »

I you want to heat your bed quicker, I've seen pruse users use hot air guns pointed at the beds to get them warm quicker.
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Shakey
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Re: 3D printer supplies

Post by Shakey »

As Rory said once we put my heated bed on 15V I haven't had any issues with being slow or uneven. Don't even need anything over it to speed it up.
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peterwaller
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Re: 3D printer supplies

Post by peterwaller »

I just had a play with my new switch mode PSU and the adjuster can get it up to 15V.
So if I reconnect the original PSU back to power the printer I could use that for the heated bed.
One thing I have been having trouble with is parts have been coming out thicker than before causing all sorts of fit problems.
On checking one of the track drive wheels I found that the spokes which are drawn at 1 mm thick were coming out to 1.3 mm.
I have found that by reducing Filament flow % from 100% to 75% they come out just about spot on, the surfaces are much smoother and the parts 25% lighter.
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Re: 3D printer supplies

Post by EpicentrE »

Just a quickie; what layer thicknesses have people with Prusa i3's found give the best results?
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