Motors

Remote-Controlled Dave · Mon May 23, 2005 7:26 pm

This prolly been done before, but has anyone got any diagrams for how to get a motor going from a Rx? What do you need ect.

Andrew_Hibberd · Post by **Andrew_Hibberd** » Mon May 23, 2005 8:53 pm

You would need a speed controller to vary the speed of the motor, something like the sozbots board, which is almost plug and play. You can also use servo boards from big servos, just wire them to the motors.

http://www.robotcombat.com

Simon Windisch · Post by **Simon Windisch** » Mon May 23, 2005 10:06 pm

Yes, I agree. I recommend the SOZBOTS Dual Speed Board Rev 2. Dynamite uses it. See http://www.sozbots.com/manuals/SOZDSCR2MR2_00.pdf for more info.

I definitely do not recommend the Barello board.

Beware of aircraft speed controllers. The will not drive the motor backwards.

Simon

Remote-Controlled Dave · Tue May 24, 2005 4:49 pm

That makes sense, but wouldnt you only need one motor for a weapon? Its a weapon I'm talking about. Does this board work with just the one motor?

Simon Windisch · Post by **Simon Windisch** » Tue May 24, 2005 6:40 pm

The board is for two motors, but I believe it can be cut down the middle, but you don't need a weapon to spin both ways, do you?

Try http://www.overlander.co.uk/detail.asp? ... =80&ID=480 - Phoenix 10 speed controller. I've got one, and although it's a little overspecified for an antweight ESC it seems to do the job. Just ignore all the undervoltage stuff.

Remote-Controlled Dave · Tue May 24, 2005 7:13 pm

Simon, maybe I'm being ignorant (not very good at this stuff yet) but is that as simple as plugging one end into the Rx and solderin the other end to ur motor? Or am I being naive? On the speed controller i mean.

Rhys · Post by **Rhys** » Tue May 24, 2005 7:57 pm

I use a plug rather than solder.

And dont get mixed up with brushed amd brushless motors.

I've always used a ICS-50. Its ok for most ant sized motor on 8.4v. And it is almost as easy as you think it is. The red plug goes to the batter, black plug goes to your motors, and the other plus fits snugly into your reciever.

http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/Sp ... s-1379.htm

Flippt · Post by **Flippt** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 5:25 pm

I cant be bothered to make a new thread, and I thought that this one was the closest one. Now, my question:

I have a servo (Park flyer), but recently I started to use 8.4V on the servo (weapon), and one evning, it stopped working! I have now taken it apart and found that the motor is dead, so I changed it with a one I had leing around, similar to size, but a whole another type of servo (Grapuner). But now is the problem, when I put the thing on, it dosent move, then if I use the potentialmeter (or what it is called) and turn just a few degrees, it jumps in and spins, but I cant "reverse".
Is the servo board dead!?

Post by **BeligerAnt** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 9:21 pm

Flippt wrote:... Is the servo board dead!?

It sounds like it!

I think 8.4V is probably a bit too high for the smaller servo boards. At 8.4V you have almost double the normal voltage, so almost 4 times the power. For power, read heat, and since the boards (and components) are so small, they cannot get rid of the heat very quickly.

When over-running anything, you are taking a risk but the smaller the thing is, the bigger the risk! You may find that a board from a higher-power (usually bigger) servo will be more reliable, but you are still working way outside the limits it was designed for.

(Ab)using servos the way we do, we have to accept that they will have a shorter working life than normal. The only "proper" solution is to use properly-rated controllers and motors - which will usually exceed the size/weight/cost budget!

Flippt · Post by **Flippt** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 10:09 pm

In this case, it was a Park, a standard servo, and you mean the bigger the servo is (and the board?) the longer it will last?

But the board seems like it is just damaged, not dead. because of the "not reversing" motor. The diffrens between the two motors, shouldn't effect it, right? and as I said, when I turn the potentialmeter it spins, but I can barely find a point when I can use the trimm on the transmitter to make it stop (have to compensate). And when I find this point I can use the stick to make it go at one direction. Totally wierd!

But would it work if I had a big servo board from a big servo? Wouldnt it effect the performace of the servo, as it may have som components that act as a regulator?