T_Y wrote: ↑Mon Nov 22, 2021 9:52 am
Indeed there are some that claim "PLA+ Is a Perfectly Legitimate Choice..."
You called?
I use eSun PLA+, mainly because that's what I started using when I got into 3D printing and didn't have a proper set up for printing better materials like an enclosure or all-metal hot end. Some materials will require an all-metal hot end to avoid the PTFE tube deteriorating. I think the Prusa already has an all metal hot end so you should be fine in that regard, but always worth checking.
PLA+ is supposed to be stronger than PLA but still just as easy to print. PLA+ can work, but you need to be careful when designing and slicing prints. If you do use PLA+ I'd recommend avoiding those parts from taking direct hits, or if you can't avoid that, then try to make those parts thicker/more infill. In most of my bots, I use 3D printed brackets to hold 0.5mm-1.5mm polycarb panels together, and just make sure I have plenty of spare prints.
For slicing, I try to align my parts so that the layer lines are vertical in the final build. This way, if a vertical spinner gets a good hit, the print isn't being peeled at the layer line, which is the weakest direction for the print. Horizontal spinners in my experience won't cause this to happen as much, and it is easier to defend against those with wedges.
Thank you very much for your help and suggestions!
Have you heard of PETG-HT or HT-PETG?
I saw it on the Prusa materials site and it looks like maybe it is only ColorFaab HT filament (too bad it is only Black, White and clear) but the chart says that it gets close to the durability of nylon but the printing similarity to PETG (but 270 nozzle and 110 bed temps). I'm drawn to it since it says no need of drybox or enclosure which are both recommended for nylon.
See table here for PETG-HT
https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials
If the chart is true and you get the strength of nylon that seems really nice. However it is expensive $80/kg - I take the listing with a grain of salt, but would getting nylon traits without the hassle of drybox and enclosure be worth it?
(I'm assuming that no enclosure required means that it won't pop off the bed during printing, but this could be an error on may part)
ColorFaab site
https://colorfabb.com/filaments/co-poly ... lorfabb-ht
"With colorFabb_HT colorFabb and Eastman Chemical Company have created a functional 3D printing filament based on Eastman’s signature Tritan™ copolyester technology. colorFabb_HT is made with Amphora HT5300 and is a low-odor and styrene-free material uniquely suited for advanced 3D printing users, particularly those who need their models to exhibit excellent durability, toughness and high temperature resistance with a Tg of over 100⁰C. colorFabb_HT empowers professional users to create more durable and useful items, making prototyping truly functional."
Thank you very much again for your tips and help.