Speed Controllers
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joey_picus
- Posts: 1137
- Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:51 pm
- Location: Lancaster, Lancashire
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They are wired like so, although I believe you only absolutely need the red and black wires from one of the plugs, although it works with both.
Joey McConnell-Farber - Team Picus Telerobotics - http://picus.org.uk/ - @joey_picus
"These dreams go on when I close my eyes...every second of the night, I live another life"
"These dreams go on when I close my eyes...every second of the night, I live another life"
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bitternboy
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:36 pm
- Location: Sheffield
Cool.
BTW the instructions very strongly urge you to check and make sure you have the right setting before doing anything. I'm not quite sure what to think of this as the few modes they list are a mess of technical jargon. From what I can distinguish none of them refer to the simple means I plan to control it. Again if anyone used this in a featherweight, what mode do you use?
BTW the instructions very strongly urge you to check and make sure you have the right setting before doing anything. I'm not quite sure what to think of this as the few modes they list are a mess of technical jargon. From what I can distinguish none of them refer to the simple means I plan to control it. Again if anyone used this in a featherweight, what mode do you use?
Jonathan Atkinson
Before you criticize another person, first walk a mile in their shoes. Then, when you critisize them, you'll be a mile away and have their shoes.
Before you criticize another person, first walk a mile in their shoes. Then, when you critisize them, you'll be a mile away and have their shoes.
I've had a look at the manual, and you will need the third option:
Radio control, differential drive,
exponential: An R/C servo signal is
connected to terminals S1 and S2. The
Sabertooth will autocalibrate the center
and endpoints of the signal.
This has the dip switches 1 and 5 DOWN.
This will get the robot running on RC signals from a receiver once you've wired it up as per your diagram.
The only thing you may want to bear in mind is to enable lithium mode. Should you ever want to use this controller along with lithium batteries, switch 3 must be DOWN. This cuts it off at 3v per cell (any more than that and the lithium battery would become unuseable/unsafe). But as long as you're using Nicads or NiMH, you can leave Lithium mode off.
Oh, BTW, the Sabretooth does have mixing built in, if you don't have mixing in your transmitter. If you put switch 4 UP it turns mixing on, and will mix together whatever 2 channels you plug the RC leads into. outting switch 4 DOWN gives you independant drive (IE: one stick drives 1 motor, another stick drives the other). You generally use that if you are doing tank steering.
Hope thats all helpful
Radio control, differential drive,
exponential: An R/C servo signal is
connected to terminals S1 and S2. The
Sabertooth will autocalibrate the center
and endpoints of the signal.
This has the dip switches 1 and 5 DOWN.
This will get the robot running on RC signals from a receiver once you've wired it up as per your diagram.
The only thing you may want to bear in mind is to enable lithium mode. Should you ever want to use this controller along with lithium batteries, switch 3 must be DOWN. This cuts it off at 3v per cell (any more than that and the lithium battery would become unuseable/unsafe). But as long as you're using Nicads or NiMH, you can leave Lithium mode off.
Oh, BTW, the Sabretooth does have mixing built in, if you don't have mixing in your transmitter. If you put switch 4 UP it turns mixing on, and will mix together whatever 2 channels you plug the RC leads into. outting switch 4 DOWN gives you independant drive (IE: one stick drives 1 motor, another stick drives the other). You generally use that if you are doing tank steering.
Hope thats all helpful
Last edited by razerdave on Thu Sep 09, 2010 8:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
<remove>
Never mind I misunderstood for a moment.
Never mind I misunderstood for a moment.
Nuts And Bots - For all your components and ready built antweights!
Alex Shakespeare - Team Shakey / Nuts And Bots / Team Nuts:
AWS 44, 45, 49, 51 & 55 Winner - Far too many robots!
Alex Shakespeare - Team Shakey / Nuts And Bots / Team Nuts:
AWS 44, 45, 49, 51 & 55 Winner - Far too many robots!
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bitternboy
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:36 pm
- Location: Sheffield
Hi, I have given up on sabertooths as the replacement for another that broke ignores its forward channel.
I would potentially be interested in one of your motor controllers. What would be capable of driving two motors and a servo (Park HPX)?
Also I am guessing it won't do mixing so how would I go about sorting that (dx6i and ar1600e)?
And would there be any chance of it being posted before the aws in brighton?
Cheers
I would potentially be interested in one of your motor controllers. What would be capable of driving two motors and a servo (Park HPX)?
Also I am guessing it won't do mixing so how would I go about sorting that (dx6i and ar1600e)?
And would there be any chance of it being posted before the aws in brighton?
Cheers
Nuts And Bots - For all your components and ready built antweights!
Alex Shakespeare - Team Shakey / Nuts And Bots / Team Nuts:
AWS 44, 45, 49, 51 & 55 Winner - Far too many robots!
Alex Shakespeare - Team Shakey / Nuts And Bots / Team Nuts:
AWS 44, 45, 49, 51 & 55 Winner - Far too many robots!
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peterwaller
- Posts: 3213
- Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Aylesbury Bucks
- Contact:
I assume this was directed at me so yes I can build you a controller and I can usually turn them round in 2 or 3 days.
The option B61 is designed to work with the AR6100 and although it should be the same for the AR6100E it will take up more room as it will be at right angles to the board.
The better bet may be the option D board that has flying leads.
See http://www.antweightwars.co.uk/Controllers.htm for more details.
Either board costs ?35 plus ?2 p&p
The option B61 is designed to work with the AR6100 and although it should be the same for the AR6100E it will take up more room as it will be at right angles to the board.
The better bet may be the option D board that has flying leads.
See http://www.antweightwars.co.uk/Controllers.htm for more details.
Either board costs ?35 plus ?2 p&p
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peterwaller
- Posts: 3213
- Joined: Fri Feb 15, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Aylesbury Bucks
- Contact:
I have been experimenting with a couple of improvements to my controllers combined with making a version for the the new Hobby King DSM2 receiver I posted about recently.
First I have found that you can double up the outputs of the motor drive chips I use so by adding a second chip they should be good for 2.4A per motor. Secondly I have fed the wires through holes in the board to give a mechanical support to the motor and power wires. Thirdly I have found some right angled connectors so I can plug in a receiver with and straight connector. This last point means the receiver is unmodified and if necessary can be moved between robots mind you with the receivers at about ?9 each thats not any great advantage.
The prototype without a case has come out at 43x19x11.5mm and 10gms including 100mm wires.
Without receiver:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n66/ ... MG1125.jpg
With receiver
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n66/ ... MG1126.jpg
Close up:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n66/ ... MG1127.jpg
Still quite a bit of testing to go through before I decide if they are ok for use with four motors or HP motors at 12.6v.
First I have found that you can double up the outputs of the motor drive chips I use so by adding a second chip they should be good for 2.4A per motor. Secondly I have fed the wires through holes in the board to give a mechanical support to the motor and power wires. Thirdly I have found some right angled connectors so I can plug in a receiver with and straight connector. This last point means the receiver is unmodified and if necessary can be moved between robots mind you with the receivers at about ?9 each thats not any great advantage.
The prototype without a case has come out at 43x19x11.5mm and 10gms including 100mm wires.
Without receiver:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n66/ ... MG1125.jpg
With receiver
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n66/ ... MG1126.jpg
Close up:
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n66/ ... MG1127.jpg
Still quite a bit of testing to go through before I decide if they are ok for use with four motors or HP motors at 12.6v.
