HDPE and perspex

Please post all questions and answers in here. This way people can easily see if someone else has the same problem.

Moderators: BeligerAnt, petec, administrator

muchalucha
Posts: 339
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:20 pm
Location: worthing/ west Sussex

HDPE and perspex

Post by muchalucha »

Any body at robots live would have seen my dear thants get launched 20 feet across the arena and land out side as well as it get smashed by battle axe (vendetta , vendetta) all because my crappy tamiya connector fell out . so i was thinking , loads of other people used hdpe and perspex , where could i get about 5 - 10 mm sheets of this stuff in the uk and which is better for my feather , ive never used this stuff before so any advice is good advice :).
Fight or flight ... ?

...suicide
User avatar
Simon Windisch
Posts: 1806
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 12:00 am
Location: Reading
Contact:

Post by Simon Windisch »

I use this stuff.

Simon
muchalucha
Posts: 339
Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:20 pm
Location: worthing/ west Sussex

Post by muchalucha »

thnaks for the link , that stuffs not to expensive at all :)
Fight or flight ... ?

...suicide
User avatar
BeligerAnt
Posts: 1872
Joined: Wed May 15, 2002 12:00 am
Location: Brighton
Contact:

Post by BeligerAnt »

Perspex is a well-known brand name of acrylic sheet. Acrylic tends to shatter when hit, so is generally useless for robots. If you want clear plastic, use polycarbonate. HDPE is much cheaper, it doesn't have the same impact strength (on paper) but it is more flexible than polycarbonate, which should help to absorb the impact.

DirectPlastics Online (see Simon's link above) also sell HDPE in a range of thicknesses. I had no problems when I ordered from them.
Gary, Team BeligerAnt
User avatar
teamocean
Posts: 515
Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 3:19 pm
Location: Reading
Contact:

Post by teamocean »

HDPE is definately the better option over polycarb, we used polycarb on the old whirlpool and ended up replacing the side panels after each event, we then replaced it with some 20mm HDPE and it has been more than strong enough ever since. We also used 5mm HDPE covers on Aftershock which have been welded together which is attached to a steel frame which can deal with spinners reasonably well.

We buy all our HDPE from direct plastics too- I would suggest looking in the stock clearance section- there are sometimes some good bargains to be had!
Will Thomas
Team Shock
www.shockbots.co.uk
Remote-Controlled Dave
Posts: 3716
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:30 pm
Location: Antrim, Northern Ireland
Contact:

Post by Remote-Controlled Dave »

We use 20mm HDPE in our current heavyweight, and I'm building my new one out of it, so it's definately strong enough for a featherweight.

Will (or Gary), how exactly do you weld HDPE? Is it a complicated process or fairly easy?
Die Gracefully Robotics
Winner - AWS 39
leo-rcc
Posts: 469
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 8:44 am
Location: Hoogvliet, The Netherlands
Contact:

Post by leo-rcc »

Dave26 wrote:We use 20mm HDPE in our current heavyweight, and I'm building my new one out of it, so it's definately strong enough for a featherweight.

Will (or Gary), how exactly do you weld HDPE? Is it a complicated process or fairly easy?
HDPE is welded with a hot air welder (and adding some hdpe as filler). All our feathers and the top of our Heavyweight Obsidian is welded HDPE.

Image

Image
Best regards,

Leo van Miert.
Dutchrobotgames
Team RCC website
Flippt
Posts: 568
Joined: Sun Nov 16, 2003 12:00 am
Location: Sweden
Contact:

Post by Flippt »

Whats the cost for such tool, or can you make one yourself with a modified end for a hot air gun?
Image
Swedish style!
Fight Robots, Not Humans!
Remote-Controlled Dave
Posts: 3716
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 5:30 pm
Location: Antrim, Northern Ireland
Contact:

Post by Remote-Controlled Dave »

That was gunna be my exact next question Joacim. lol
Die Gracefully Robotics
Winner - AWS 39
User avatar
BeligerAnt
Posts: 1872
Joined: Wed May 15, 2002 12:00 am
Location: Brighton
Contact:

Post by BeligerAnt »

For welding RONNY's bodyshell (1mm) and chassis (3mm) I used an old soldering iron bit. The technique took a bit of mastering, but once I got it right it is really strong.

I would expect a hot-air gun could be pressed into service for bigger jobs. A variable temperature might be useful, I suspect a standard paint-stripping tool might get a bit too hot. HDPE melts at 130C by the way, and from what I've read you have to avoid overheating it.
Gary, Team BeligerAnt
Post Reply