RobotWars101

andrea.taras wrote: ↑Fri May 11, 2018 8:50 am so maybe it's got something to do with the fact that I'm only replacing it with 4.4k total resistors?

Scratch that, I wired two more for a total of 8.6k according to my tester and it still isn't centering

The other option is to leave the potentiometer in circuit, if it is not too big, then you can adjust it to give no drive when the sticks and trims are centered and then just lock it with a small blob of glue. The problem is that I was hoping to save some grams by removing it, considering that acros...

Hello again guys, maybe the title can be a little deceiving, but I'm having trouble centering the trim of the servo board that I just connected to my small DC motor. I'll explain better: I recently bought some budget-friendly digital HV servos so that I could use their boards as ESCs on my new robot...

Thank you guys for chiming in! Yeah the ORX is a very cheap receiver so I had my fair share of doubts about it being able to regulate the output voltage automatically, but to sort it out I bought myself a voltage tester (always handy to have) and I was able to confirm that the voltage output is inde...

Note to self: read the description of each product thoroughly before you buy it! I didn't realize that my Rx (the OrangeRx R610V2 Lite from Hobbyking) can actually handle 2S LiPos out of the box, therefore saving me a lot of head-scratching issues. So I should be safe wiring a 2S LiPo straight into ...

Thank you Dave :) I somehow didn't think of doing that... I'm obviously using the Turnigy HV servo like the vast majority of us who built a flipper ant and I'm 100% sure that the yellow wire is signal, whereas brown and red are the power wires. So if I do this and, say, use a 5V 1A BEC (like this on...

Hello to all! I've been trying to find some lightweight NiMh battery packs but with no luck so far! Therefore I thought I'd be switching to LiPos, as they're far more common and lighter than some NiMh packs I've seen around the web. The issue is that obviously my receiver can only take up to 6V, so ...

Hi, I've just had a go with some Innofil Pro1, which is a form of PLA which is, in most respects, stronger than ABS, but prints as easily as normal PLA (actually, more easily in my experience). https://www.innofil3d.com/product-category/innopro/pro1/ It is of course a lot more expensive. The strong...

How thick is the PEI sheet you put on the hotbed? Does the adhesive it comes with leave residues once you take it off? I wouldn't want to ruin the ultrabase :) Would you recommend printing at a slower speed too, maybe for the first few layers, just to improve adhesion? BTW If anyone has any feedback...

Hey! Thanks for the quick reply :) So as long as I have good bed adhesion, ABS shouldn't be too bad to deal with, huh? I have the heated Anycubic Ultrabase print bed that the printer came with and so far prints stick like wonder, although I've never tried with ABS, so it might be anoher story... Wha...